C O N S T R U C T I O N   L O G 

S E P T E M B E R     2 0 0 4

One wing to go!

 1

Cut out the rest of the scallops, planed and sanded ribs smooth.

Cut out aileron. Riversed hinge.

  Rounded aileron nose ribs , notched 1/32" for skin. Dry fitted skin and marked glue lines.

Set up table outside and varnished aileron and skin except for glue lines. The varnish is definitely what I have been terribly allergic to lately. I can feel it even in open air. But I can't seem to find a match for match the color in another brand.

Cut out a piece of 1/8" plywood for curved cut out in upper wing. Marked using ruler across ribs, cut precisely, and glued in. Added four 1/16" braces to keep it stiff.
  7 hrs

 2

Tried unsuccessfully to find a matching varnish stain in another brand that I might not be allergic to. Ended up mixing 1/2 Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut and 1/2 Classic Oak , and added some Minwax Golden Oak stain for yellow.

Second coated inside of leading edge.

Glue on leading edge skin.

 Beveled and notched, and glued in the 2 strips that form the trailing edge of the aileron bay.

Spackled leading edge of wing with Aero-Poxy.

Finished cutting out the letters for Tomas. Trying to decide whether to put the h or not.
  6 hrs

 3

Sanded aileron and wing leading edge. Spacked other side.

Gusseted wood strips on the underside.

 

 Gave a second coat of varnish to aileron.

Laid out third wing, the upper left one. Glued ribs in notches of trailing edge. Prepared 1/8", 1/16" and 1/32" spacers to fit in space between top of main spar and rib caps.

Got an e-mail with pictures from Jamil Diaz, who is pionneering putting a VERNER 1300 on a Classic in Porto-Rico . His installation looks good. The engine bed  type mount looks simple enough to make. Now if he would hurry up and fly the darn thing, I might finally make up my mind as to what engine I want! He says he has seen one on a Kitfox though, and it ran and sounded great.
  4 hrs

 4

Glued ribs to main spar using plywood shims to fill gap.

Glued 2 strips in front of ribs.

Glued ribs to rear spar, using little wedges to fill gaps.

Cut and glued geodetic on top side of wing.

  6 hrs

 6

Varnished second wing both sides with new varnish, outside.

Glued in false ribs. Glued in nose ribs. Doubled them where the 48" pieces of skin meet.Glued compression members on top of wing.

Drilled 2 holes in rear spar and glued in bushings after cutting out last cell in trailing edge. Attached brackets to spars.

  6 hrs

 7

Glued in curved notch ply. Put in re-enforcing 1/16" ribs.

Glued in bottom geodetic and shims.

Cut notches in and glued in aileron spar.

Cut 1/2"x1/2"notch in tip nose rib, trimmed ends of bow supports at proper angle, dry fitted bow. Glued in tip bow. Added blocks and gussets at all joints.

  8 hrs

 8

Dry fitted leading edge skin and marked glue lines. Held skin in place with 1" masking tape. Untaped one side , put glue on both surfaces, and retaped tight.

Finished trailing edge geodetic on top side.

Cut 2 ends aileron ribs, drilled them for hinge pin in place. Glued them to spar and trailing edge.

Varnished second aileron.

Cut a bunch of 1/16"x3/8" strips out of unused stringers, and a bunch of 1/8"x1/2" strips for aileron geodetic.

  8 hrs

 9

Untaped leading edge, cleaned glue residue.

Glued 1/16"x 3/8" cap aps on top side of wing, then on bottom.

Put 2 wings on temporarily to see how it looks and take some pictures. Whow, that really looks like an airplane! And feel like an airplane when you sit in it! Well, still 1/2 an airplane actually... but not for too long.

I need to order an engine , and it looks like it might be the VERNER 133 after all. I called Florida Flyers, and they are sending me the forms.

Jamil Diaz sent me a picture of the motor mount he designed for the Verner. Simple enough, and strong. I assume he used the Verner rubber mounts.

  8 hrs

Here are a few more pictures, from every angle.

 10  

Removed tape.

Cut scallops in plywood leading edge ply.

  2 hrs

 13

Spackeled leading edge and trailing edge on both sides.

Cut bottom side aileron geodetic .

  2 hrs

 14
Glued in geodetic on bottom of aileron , and 1/4 " spar strips .

Laid out fourth wing, the bottom left one. Glued ribs to trailing edge and left to dry.

Trimmed false ribs .

Glued two 1" ply strips on sides of aileron.
  3 hrs

 15

Glued ribs to main spar(plenty of epoxy on bottom ,shims on top). Slid in rear spars and glued it in with little wedges of wood on bottom and top. Glued in aileron spar.

Glued the two 1/4" strips at front of ribs.

Cut and glued geodetic on top side of wing.

  5 hrs

Well, this is it, I just ordered the VERNER 133, with oil cooler, exhaust and gauges, and sent half the money to Florida Flyers. The other 1/2 is due when it ships from the Tcheck Republic to Florida. They will check it there , then ship it on to me. I will hopefully have it quickly.

 16
Glued in false ribs, compression members, and nose ribs.

Turned wing over . Cut and glued bottom compression members.

Cut and glued geodetic on bottom side of wing.

Cut aileron end ribs out of 1/4" plywood, installed hinges and drilled holes for pins.

Cut out 1/2" trailing edge sections , and glued end ribs in place to spar and trailing edge.

  6 hrs

 17

Dry fit nose skin, marked glue lines, glued in place and taped tight .

Glued bottom compression members.

Fit and glued tip bow , as well as re-enforcing braces and gussets.

Fit and glued extra aileron ply ribs to attach controls, and corner blocking.

Fashioned 2 handles to put on wing tips. Used a wedge of wood sandwiched between 2 pieces of 1/8" ply, with an oval cut out. It will be glued to the inside of the bow.
  8 hrs

 19

Removed tape, cleaned up glue residue.

Cut and glued 3/8"x1/16" cap strips to ribs on both sides.

  8 hrs

 20

Removed tape, cleaned residue.

Glued aileron 1/4"x1/4" spar caps on bottom side, and aileron nose ribs.

Glued aileron nose ribs on third wing too.

Glued 1/8"x1"plywood strip at root end on bottom side.

Same for 3rd wing.

Cut scallops in leading edge ply.

Rounded ends of false ribs.

Finished shaping wing tip handles blocks and glued them to the bow of both bottom wings.
  6 hrs

 21

Sanded leading edge of third wing.

Glued 1/4"x1/4" aileron spar caps on other side, as well as geodetic and 1/8"x1" plywood side strips.

Cut and glued geodetic and 1" ply strips on bottom of fourth wing aileron.

Sanded bottom side of fourth wing.

Spackled leading edge and trailing edge with Aero-Poxy.

  8 hrs

 22  

Sanded other side of lower left wing. Cut and glued geodetic on top of aileron, and aileron spar caps.

Fit and glued 1' ply strips at each end of aileron, and at root of wing.

Studied my manual and got a flying lesson from Bob this afternoon. We stayed in the pattern doing take offs and landings. It's hard to keep that tail dragger straight...

  4 hrs

 23  

Finished sanding lower left wing, spackled leading and trailing edge.

Cut out aileron.

Fitted 1/4" beveled strips on rear end of cut spars with 1/4'x1/4' notches.

Cut aileron out of upper left wing, and glued the 1/4" strips too.

Practiced take-offs on the simulator, and got another flying lesson in Sylacauga.

  4 hrs

 24

Cut 1/16" ply gussets , and glued under 1/4" strips.

Sanded spackled areas.

Cleaned up.

Went to see Buddy Tollison to look at his fuel system, electrical system, instruments panel, etc... His axles are attached to the gear with a totally different aluminum bolted unit, much nicer then my welded steel angle contraption. The brake itself is also much better, and bigger. I will have to see about it after I find my wire spoke wheels.

 

  3 hrs

 25

Got a brushed finish on all the aluminum parts and tubes.

Started attaching fittings to wings.

Installed aileron push rods with rod end bearings instead of clevis forks. Had to notch the wing walk supports fot the push rod to fit.

I doubled the bell crank so the bearings would be supported on both sides, even though Gene said mounting them to the side was fine. I found it tended to bind and not move very smoothly. Will have to get 2 more from Fisher.
  8 hrs

 26

Attached the rest of the fittings to the wings. Drilled lined up 1/4" holes in all of them, one side at a time , from the 3/16" predrilled holes.

I am now ready to turn the fuselage sideways across the room on top of the table, attach the wings, and rig the struts and wires.

  3 hrs

 27

Turned fuselage across the room and clamped it down on blocks on top of the tables, level side to side and front to back.

Cut 2 degree wedge and fixture to sit on wing out of 5/8" paticle board.

Attached top wings to cabanes. At this point, rear spar fittings are not drilled 1/4" yet. Supported wing tips with sticks and leveled wings. Pulled string along leading edges to line them up. Put nail centered on top of tail post and used it to check the distance to both wing tips is equal. Pulled wires to hold it.

  6 hrs

 28

Set 4 level blocks on floor below main spar. Level top wings ,same distance from floor.

Check equidistance between tail post and wing tips.

Drilled doubled strut tubes for fittings on gear ends and bolted them on. Cut tubes to length, and added 2 doublers riveted at tip end .

Having a hard time getting everything absolutely equidistant and level.

  6 hrs

 29

Chuck at Fisher suggested that getting things within a 1/4" was fine, and that a lot of planes were probably not that close.... Finally got everything within 1/4" tolerances, most of it within 1/8" actually, drilled main struts and bolted them on.

Then fit lower right wing on. Had to add a 1/16" shim to increase the spacing of the fittings for them to fit the thicker rear spar carry thru.

The rib shaped jig cut from the blue prints turned out not to fit the actual wing at all, so I ended up drawing the actual airfoil and tracing the camber line to determine the correct chord line and correct the jig.

Supported wing at root end with wooden blocks so bottom is level with bottom of fuselage. Set the angle of incidence to zer0 with corrected jig, and dihedral to 2 degrees using the wedge jig and levels. The distance between the bolts of the inter wing strut is about 36 1/3" instead of the 35 1/2" of the blue print .

  6 hrs

 30

 

Dry fitted front and back leg of N struts. The bent in the back leg is too much, as the picture shows.
So I shaped 2 wood blocks to protect the tubing and flatenned the bent in the vise until it fit.
Beveled the other end of the tubing and ground and filed them to fit.
Made the two rods connecting lower to upper ailerons. Because the rods are so slanted, the 2 ailerons do not move proportionally. The upper aileron travels much further down than the lower aileron. I will ask Gene about this.
Cut, shaped and drilled fittings to attach landing wires to wing. Slipped cable thimble and cable through hole and put a nicopress sleeve while holding it tight. Iused the standard aluminum first, then tried 2 copper ones, which Ilike better.
  6 hrs
 
TOTAL  619 hrs

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