Glued in place back of main panel and front panel.

Dry fit wrap around plywood sheets for turtledecks.

Added two 1/16" ply strips bent under stringers for added rigidity.

Put tail feathers in place to fit hardware.

Sorted out hardware for tail feathers assembly.

Added gussets to front part of rudder.

Planed and sanded rudder smooth.

Glued in uprights for passenger seat back to floor and back of panel.

Glued together sides of seat. Glued front seat in.

Added gussets on inside of fuselage.

Fit seat and back.

Started drilling and assembling joystick and torque tube.

Worked on joystick and torque tube assembly.

Made and installed all 4 rudder pedals.

Finished and polished joytick assembly.Turned fuselage on its side to install it. Drilled floor and rear carry thru with hole saws. Started installation .

Spacked rudder with Aeropoxy Light.

Glued block to rear spar carry thru to attach elevator control lever behind pilot seat.

Installed tail wheel support and stabilizer braces brackets on lower longerons.

Disassembled landing gear and started polishing parts.

Added 1/16"strips all around edges of stabilizer.

Sanded rudder and varnished it with Olympic poly-urethane varnish stain .

Started adding 1/16"strips to stringers on rear turtledeck.

Planed and sanded 1/16" strips on stabilizer and elevator, spackled with Aero-poxy.

Added more 1/16" strips to stringers and tail fin.

Sanded airframe, geodetic , etc...

Ordered seat belts, Poly-fiber materials to test covering , replacement aluminium tubing, throttle quadrants, and washers.

Sanded elevator and stabilizer. Spackled other side.

Sanded airframe.

Called Fisher to clarify mounting of landing gear and position of members on top of floor thru which it bolts.

Added large gussets to attach throttle quadrants I just received from Aircraft Spruce.

Cut slots for passenger seatbelt to attach inside panel.

Sanded airframe.

Mounted landing gear on with only 4 x1/16" bolts. That somehow does not seem like much.

Added blocks and plywood backing to attach stabilizer.

Installed second throttle quadrant, and made linkage out of 3/8" tubing and rivetted clevis forks.

Paid a visit to Dick Simpson( he is my EAA advisor and is building a Fisher Tigermoth himself) to look at his plane and pick his brains. He has hydraulic toe brakes on his plane, and I just adapted the pedals to my purpose.

He used cables for rudder connections, and I know it is the traditional way. But as an engineer , I can't help thinking rods with ball bearing ends would give a better linkage, so I rigged it my way and will let him and the guys look at it Tuesday.

To test my theory without ruining an expensive 3/8" 6061T6 tube , I threaded the ends of a 1/4" aliminum rod I had and screwed the rod end on.

It seems to work pretty good to me.

The pedals were toofar forward, even for my long legs, so I moved them 4" back to the next member in the floor.

Installed brake cable between pedal and go kart drum brake.

Ordered 4 Aurora bearings with a 3/16" hole and 4 rod ends to fit 3/8" tubing.

Installed passenger seat belt as per plans. But the fit is awkward, and I can't buckle the belt . I will have to use a cable extension, or make anothe anchor point to the side of the seat.

Varnished elevator and stabilizer with Olympic poly urethane varnish stain to replicate the look of old orange shellac.

Sanded and varnished forward floor section and pedals, as well as the area of the front of the firewall to be covered with metal.

Put a second coat on rudder. Spackled fin and turtledeck stringers with Aeropoxy.

Glued angled pieces in fin.

Loosened up and lubricated stick assembly to move smoother. Could still be better. Need to get teflon blocks  for the push rod to slide through.

Drilled 2 1/2" holes in seat backs. Varnished .

Linked front pedal to back one .

Sanded and varnished floor and frame, panels , etc...

Cut   and installed angle brackets to connect seat belt bolt under passenger seat to side of seat .

Drilled blocks for pilot seat belts and cut slots in seat to get the belts through.

Cut slots to attch rear spar to spar carry -through.

Cut and install new angle brackets to attach front of stabilizer. The ones that came with the kit were drilled too close to the top.

Varnished inside of geodetic and turtledeck, and fin.

Got ready for first inspection by Dick Simpson, EAA advisor, and John Burgin, field inspector for the FAA certification . They looked the plane over, and seemed pleased with the quality of the work. Dick will send a report to the EAA, that he says should help me get insurance from them.

Installed new tail wheel I had ordered from Fisher to replace the flimsy grocery cart wheel that came with the kit.

Bought a few sheets a poster board and started cutting patterns for the aluminum turtledeck panels.

Cut and fit aluminum turtle deck panels out of 6061T6 .032 . Cut them with an air nibbler , and sanded edges smooth using a particle board pattern to support metal.

Used small copper side pieces with stainless finishing washers and brass screws.

Cut 3 1/8" holes in panel with hole saw, and installed air speed and vertical speed non TSO instruments from Aircraft Sruce. Used small brass acorn nuts. Will add a 3/16" thick padauk veneer.

Screwed turtledeck panels down with brass finishing washers.

Decided to use a lighter .020 weight 6061 T6 aluminum for the front turtle deck , with supports over the gas tank.

After talking to Chuck at FFP, I cut out the dropped down gas tank support members and raised them back up level with the top longerons. That way, the stick doesn't hit the bottom of the tank anymore and there is more room for my knees in the passenger seat. Used 1/8" ply gussets under the members and the longerons .

Riveted 1/4" rod ens to 3/8" tubing with 470AD(hard) 3/32" aluminum battering rivets for final left rudder connection.Used 2 at each end at right angle to each other. Moved temporary rod to the right side to make rudder functional and test the pedals. It gets a little too far for the toe brake when the rudder is all the way on that side. The pedals may have to move back a little more, or the connecting rod will have to be shortenned some to bring the pedals back. I may move the connecting bracket up to shorten the travel of the pedals.

Mounted the three steel hinges on stabilizer and elevator.

Made trim tab cable brackets.

Sorted out the pieces for the cabanes.

Polished and shaped all brackets for cabanes, cleaned up tubing.

Cut and assembled cabanes jig out of straight 3/4" plywood. Added plywood squares.

Fitted jig on top longerons 25 5/8" back from firewall.

Got some good black rubber pipe insulation and experimented with lacing a padded leather trim around the cockpit openings through 1/8" holes drilled along the edge of the metal turtledeck pieces. Tje smaller one will be my choice, using short pieces of soft leather stitched end to end to follow the curve.

Polished tubing for cabanes, attached doublers on end with 1/8" pop rivets.

Put in place brackets with one bolt only, placed tubes , drilled and assembled cabanes, except for the front top brackets which I find too small. Notching that heavily doubled front tubes to fit would leave so little material it would not be safe in my book. I will order some 1" channel and make slightly larger brackets.

Had to move back the gas tank that I had just moved up. Will rebuild the support members.